Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Oil-Soluble Vitamin C Derivative: 360° Antioxidant Matrix with Enhanced Epidermal Delivery & Photoaging Defense


Basic Information


  • INCI: Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

  • CAS No.: 183476-82-6

  • Molecular Formula: C₃₃H₅₈O₈

  • Purity: ≥98% (HPLC)

  • Lipophilicity: logP 8.2 (Octanol/water)

  • Stability:

    • Oxygen stability: 24M at 40°C

    • pH Range: 3.0-8.0

  • Certifications: COSMOS, ISO 16128, Halal




Description: Quadruple Palmitate Innovation


The 4-isopalmitoyl ester structure enables:


  • 8x greater skin penetration vs L-ascorbic acid

  • pH-independent activity (vs pH-sensitive derivatives)

  • Self-antioxidizing system regenerates α-tocopherol


Clinically proven to reduce UV-induced ROS by 91% while maintaining 95% potency after 12M storage.




Scientific Benefits


① 3D Collagen Synthesis


  • Increases procollagen I mRNA (+228%)

  • Inhibits MMP-1 (IC₅₀=12μM)

  • Enhances LOXL2 enzyme activity


② Melanocyte Regulation


  • Reduces tyrosinase activity 63%

  • Blocks α-MSH binding to MC1R

  • Inhibits PAR-2 mediated transfer


③ Lipid Peroxidation Shield


  • Neutralizes 14 types of lipid radicals

  • Protects squalene from oxidation (98% retention)

  • Maintains stratum corneum integrity


④ Sebum Quality Control


  • Reduces comedogenic oleic acid by 44%

  • Increases antimicrobial sapienic acid

  • Balances scalp microbiome


⑤ Formulation Advantages


  • Heat-stable up to 85°C

  • No chelator requirement

  • Compatible with all emulsion types




Application Guidelines


➀ Age-Defying Systems


  • Anti-aging serums (1-3%)

  • Neck firming creams (0.5-2%)

  • Microneedle ampoules


➁ Hyperpigmentation Solutions


  • Spot correctors (2-5%)

  • Post-peel recovery balms

  • Melasma prevention SPF


➂ Sun Care Synergy


  • Antioxidant SPF boosters (0.5-1.5%)

  • Post-UV repair masks

  • Infrared radiation protectants


➃ Hair & Scalp Care


  • Scalp antioxidant tonics (0.2-1%)

  • UV-protective hair serums

  • Gray hair prevention formulas


➄ Advanced Delivery


  • Liposome encapsulation

  • Oleogel carriers

  • Pickering emulsion stabilization




Technical Specifications


  • Recommended Usage:

    • Facial care: 0.2-5%

    • Body care: 0.5-3%

    • Hair care: 0.1-2%

  • Synergistic Partners:

    • + Vitamin E: Radical recycling

    • + Ferulic Acid: Stability enhancement

    • + Niacinamide: Tone uniformity

  • Avoid:

    • High pH (>8.5) systems

    • Ionic surfactants (>15%)




Clinical Validation


  • 12-Week RCT (2% Serum Formula):

    • +37% skin evenness (VISIA®)

    • -29% wrinkle volume

    • 91% antioxidant activity retention

    • 0% irritation reported




Performance Comparison


Parameter

Tetraisopalmitate

Ascorbic Acid

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Skin Penetration

8.2 μg/cm²

1.1 μg/cm²

3.8 μg/cm²

Stability (40°C/6M)

97%

23%

65%

Tyrosinase Inhibition

63%

71%

58%

Comedogenicity

0 (Non-comedogenic)

2

1